The "Grande Brasile" slowly passes Gorée Island before starting to manoeuvre into its spot alongside the quay of the Dakar harbour. We have just completed, in some 15 days, the reverse journey that thousands of slaves made from Dakar to the colonies, and in very different circumstances!
The mixed freighter (containers and anything on wheels) of the Grimaldi line is not a cruise ship: passengers are well treated, but the cargo dictates when and where the ship goes. Nevertheless, we make the passage in comfort: exterior, air-conditioned cabin with private bathroom and a minibar, three meals a day in the officers' mess, access to a small gym, a TV lounge (but no antenna) and a minuscule outdoor pool.
Archie is safely tucked away below, next to a blue van that belongs to German passengers Volker and Barbara, in whose company we spend many evenings chatting about our adventures from Alaska to Ushuaia.
The (Swedish) officers and the (Filipino) crew ignore us most of the time, going about their routines night and day. The vibrations of the mighty diesel engine can be felt throughout the ship at all times. At sea, the rolling movement reminds you that you are on a ship in the middle of the ocean.
During the first couple of days, the Grande Brasile makes calls at Paranagua, Santos and Rio de Janeiro (all Brazil) before heading out at full speed (18 knots, some 33 km/h) towards the open waters and the West-African coast.
After leaving Rio, there is no more land in sight, nor other vessels to observe: the radar shows no other presence 100 miles in any direction: the ocean really is huge, and our previously impressive freighter has been reduced to a nut-shell.
The increasing heat on deck, and the passage of several time zones confirm that we're approaching the Equator once again. What a change from the Argentinian autumn! And a good preparation for the Sahel climate that awaits us in Senegal!
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