"All roads lead to Rome". But from Nairobi (Kenya) to Addis Ababa (Ethiopia), there is much less choice for the overlander. One route leads via Marsabit to Moyale. It is much-dreaded by overlanders for its terrible corrugations, rattling man and machine into desperation. Fortunately, there is an alternative, along Lake Turkana into the middle of pretty much nowhere...
A short warning before telling you our story: even seasoned overlanders should not attempt this route without some level of preparation, as fuel, water and fuel supplies can be problematic on these 800km off the beaten track. There is a lot of good information to be found online. We preferred Dawie du Plessis' description, which we reproduce with comments on our "tips & tricks for travelers" section.
The nice tar roads surrounding Nairobi cease at the latest in Nanyuki at the foot of Mount Kenya. The tar has just disintegrated and given way to a washed-out sand track.
From Nanyuki to Maralal, we cross the extremely dry savannah, always with Mount Kenya on the horizon. Villages become fewer and fewer, and our encounters are limited to colorful Samburu and Masai herdsmen guarding camel and cattle herds.
What a surprise, when suddenly a herd of elephants crosses our path! Zebra observe us from a distance, the setting couldn't be more African!
The odd warrior can be seen, with their elaborate head-dresses (composed of feathers and plastic flowers). Fortunately for us, they go about their own business, fighting off cattle thieves and rival tribes.
In dusty Maralal, we are greeted by a bunch of youngsters, who only want to "help". In a way they do, as they direct us to the market stalls that sell what we're looking for, mostly fresh produce and beer - you never know when we can stock up again!
Soon after Maralal, on the way to South Horr, the sandy track becomes rocky. Some passages really take bites out of the tires, by they resist quite well, sparing us a wheel change in the brutal sunshine (with no wind).
At some point, the road drops back into the Rift valley, and the temperatures rise immediately. 40°C don't affect us much in the air-conditioned car, but at night, we're busy sweating in the >30°C temperatures.
After three days, Lake Turkana finaly makes an appearance! The lake at first appears lifeless. Surrounded by black lava fields, it looks more like an oversized swimming pool.
No trees, no shrubs to be seen on its shores. It it weren't for the thirsty camel herds and their (no less thirsty) Turkana minders, we would have thought we took a wrong turn and landed on the moon!
Loiyangalani, the oasis on the shore of the lake, is surprisingly busy. Members of all tribes of the region gather in the shade of the palm trees. They are especially numerous in this dry season, as nomads approach the "city" in need of water. It's also the season for cattle rustling and other (armed) skirmishes, that produce several dozen casualties every year...
We're not particularly worried though: people here seem to be happy to welcome foreigners, for the entertainment, and for the money they spend. It feels like a very immediate kind of development aid!
We follow the sandy track from Loiyangalani to Iliret via the Sibiloy National Park.
After Ileret, we cross the invisible border to Ethiopia. We wouldn't have noticed if it weren't for the GPS device's beeping. Yes, here we are in Ethiopia now, but that's going to be a different story - stay tuned!
0 comment(s)
